Great Asian Railway Journeys

Michael Portillo’s south east Asian railway tour reaches its final stop - the phenomenally successful island city state of Singapore. In the historic centre, Michael discovers Singapore’s maritime origins and the vision of the 19th-century Englishman who put it on the map. In the Long Bar at the iconic Raffles Hotel, Michael treats himself to a Singapore sling, now a world-famous cocktail. A boat trip along the Singapore River reveals how trade flourished under British colonial rule. And Michael marvels the scale of shipping today on a visit to a vast construction site, where a new mega port will strengthen Singapore’s position as a global trading hub. In Chinatown, Michael dines with an artist and his family and learns about the history of the Chinese community. At the Singapore Botanic Gardens, Michael helps to keep the orchids blooming, and later, he enjoys an extraordinary spectacle at gardens of a very different kind down by the bay.

Michael Portillo continues his 2,500-mile rail tour of south east Asia. On this leg, he explores the phenomenal growth of Malaysia’s capital, Kuala Lumpur, from muddy swamp to seat of British colonial power to the financial and economic tiger of today. Michael discovers Kuala Lumpur’s 19th-century origins as a tin mine and tries his hand crafting jewellery at the Royal Selangor pewter factory. In a traditional quarter of the city, untouched by modern development, Michael tastes the Malaysian national dish nasi lemak before investigating the scandalous behaviour of the Britain’s resident general at the turn of the 20th century.

Michael Portillo’s 2,500-mile rail tour of south east Asia reaches Malaysia. On the island of Penang, Michael traces the origins of the former British colony in Georgetown, rides one of the world’s steepest funicular railways and is enchanted by exotic specimens at Malaysia’s first butterfly sanctuary. Travelling on Malaysia’s hi-tech railway network, Michael visits the wettest town in the country, Taiping, and learns how the discovery of tin made this land a prized possession for Britain. Next stop is the regal town of Kuala Kangsar, home to the Sultan of Perak and to one of Malaysia’s most prestigious schools, known as the ‘Eton of the East’. Michael joins pupils in a game of Eton Fives.

Michael Portillo’s rail tour of south east Asia resumes in the southern archipelago of Indonesia. Michael is in Java’s Central province, travelling east towards Surabaya. Beginning in Java’s royal city, Yogyakarta, Michael visits the Sultan’s palace and admires the ancient art of shadow puppetry known as wayang. Struck by the colourful patterned fabrics in the city’s markets, Michael investigates the process of batik, a Unesco world heritage textile, and is tempted by a saucy sarong. Moving north to Ambarawa, Michael boards a scenic heritage line constructed by the Dutch with carriages dating from the time of his Bradshaw’s guidebook. Today, this restored relic of the colonial era is cherished by Javanese tourists.

Michael Portillo’s 2500-mile railway tour of south east Asia reaches its southern most point in Indonesia. His journey crosses the island of Java at the heart of this archipelago nation of 270 million people. In the heaving capital city of Jakarta, Michael uncovers Indonesia’s Dutch colonial past and its rich history as a port but discovers its future is uncertain. He negotiates the city’s notorious traffic, makes a colourful cycle ride, tries the newly launched MRT metro and dines out on Jakarta’s famous street food. He admires Bogor’s Botanical Gardens, now a centre for research and conservation, and finds they were developed by an Englishman, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, once Governor of Java.

Michael Portillo continues his thousand-mile journey aboard the Unification Railway from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to the capital, Hanoi, and on to the vast northern port of Haiphong. He finishes amid the limestone islets in the turquoise waters of Halong Bay. Steered by his 1913 Bradshaw’s Guide, Michael travels through what was French Indochina and is today the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.

Armed with his 1913 Bradshaw’s Guide, Michael Portillo boards the Unification Railway for a thousand-mile journey from Ho Chi Minh City in the south to the northern capital, Hanoi, and finishing in the beautiful emerald seas of Halong Bay. Michael’s Bradshaw’s unlocks for him the traumatic 20th-century history of today’s Socialist Republic of Vietnam, a former French colony. On this leg, Michael braves the streets of Ho Chi Minh City on a motorbike, one of 8.5 million people to do so daily. He attempts the national sport, da cau, and samples the French-Vietnamese fusion food banh mi.

Michael Portillo is in the Thai capital, Bangkok, midway through his rail tour of Thailand. He learns how the late 19th-century King Rama V built a grand palace and introduced railways to his country. He discovers the fine terminus commissioned by the king and meets a historian and designer who shares family roots with the present royal dynasty. Michael learns that King Rama V’s love of steam engines was inspired by Queen Victoria. At the colossal new station under construction in the city, Michael hears how its four levels and 24 platforms will transform Thailand’s transport infrastructure. He circles the Grand Palace by tuk tuk, then boards the 21st-century skytrain for a wonderful view of the city. Michael dines on the water in a floating market, where purchases are made from boat to boat. Following in the footsteps of writers such as Joseph Conrad, Graham Greene and John Le Carre, Michael checks into the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, built just before his guide.

Steered by his 1913 Bradshaw’s Guide, Michael Portillo embarks on a four-part rail adventure through Thailand from the northern city of Chiang Mai to Kanchanaburi on the River Kwai, and from Bangkok to the southern beach resort of Hua Hin. On this leg, Michael tries his hand at the art of umbrella making and learns about northern Thai cookery. He explores the walled and moated city of Chiang Mai, former capital of the Lanna Kingdom before it was annexed by the King of Siam. Travelling south to Lampang, Michael discovers the former centre of the teak wood business and investigates how successive Thai kings preserved their independence from the rival colonial powers of Britain and France. He discovers the history of a British governess at the royal court, who was made famous on stage and screen, and discovers how King George V kept elephants at the British Consulate.

In Hong Kong, Michael Portillo investigates how Britain won the island and Kowloon from China after two drug wars. He straddles a bamboo pole to learn the traditional Cantonese art of noodle making.